(There are progress updates over on the Boston Largs site)
They're pretty much finished apart from rivets, for which I will be trying out resin water-slide transfers from the U.S. for the first time.
Here's how it looks at the moment...
Saturday, 26 February 2011
Meanwhile...
If you've been puzzled by a lack of posts this week it's because I've been busy finishing off a contract for a couple of 7mm ballast wagons.
(There are progress updates over on the Boston Largs site)
They're pretty much finished apart from rivets, for which I will be trying out resin water-slide transfers from the U.S. for the first time.
Here's how it looks at the moment...
(There are progress updates over on the Boston Largs site)
They're pretty much finished apart from rivets, for which I will be trying out resin water-slide transfers from the U.S. for the first time.
Here's how it looks at the moment...
Tuesday, 22 February 2011
Final Chapter
The last installment of the epic carriage building guide has been posted.
This update covers building the floor and roof and completing the model.
This update covers building the floor and roof and completing the model.
Sunday, 20 February 2011
Attention Scratch Builders...
If you're following the carriage building guide (on the page menu on the right of the screen) a little more has just been added.
Friday, 18 February 2011
A Little Alteration to Lyd
After much havering Himself has elected to put our model of Lyd under the knife and carry out some cosmetic surgery on the cab.
As you may know the FR’s new L&B replica engine has removable sections at each side of the cab which slightly alter the profile to enable her to fit through Garnedd Tunnel. When running on the Welsh Highland, with its much more generous loading gauge, these extra pieces are replaced to give Lyd her traditional cab outline.
Here she is wearing her FR profile..
Because we plan to run our Lyd on both our layouts, Dduallt (FR) and Bron Hebog (WHR) we thought we should really have our Lyd (a Backwoods Miniatures kit) built to the FR profile.
The alteration has been quite a challenging one, mainly because Himself had already made up the cab in original condition before committing to the modification.
The tricky part is that the modification requires a strip to be cut from the top but there is not enough brass above the doorway to do this while still leaving a linking piece.
So what he did was this.
First he cut the top of the doorway out, then cut 1mm off the top of the remaining cab side and then fitted a 1mm strip of brass across inside to bridge the gap in the doorway and keep the shape.
As the kit has various cab style etches for the modified cabs that were fitted to the class he cut out the top doorway from a spare etch with the same size doorway, soldered this to the new brass strip so that the top of the door arch was level with the top of the window arch, then filed the top all level.
He then re profiled the corners of the front and back cabsheets to meet the the cut down sides and then altered the cab roof to fit by bending in a vice.
What do you think? Have we got the effect right??
As you may know the FR’s new L&B replica engine has removable sections at each side of the cab which slightly alter the profile to enable her to fit through Garnedd Tunnel. When running on the Welsh Highland, with its much more generous loading gauge, these extra pieces are replaced to give Lyd her traditional cab outline.
Here she is wearing her FR profile..
Because we plan to run our Lyd on both our layouts, Dduallt (FR) and Bron Hebog (WHR) we thought we should really have our Lyd (a Backwoods Miniatures kit) built to the FR profile.
The alteration has been quite a challenging one, mainly because Himself had already made up the cab in original condition before committing to the modification.
The tricky part is that the modification requires a strip to be cut from the top but there is not enough brass above the doorway to do this while still leaving a linking piece.
So what he did was this.
First he cut the top of the doorway out, then cut 1mm off the top of the remaining cab side and then fitted a 1mm strip of brass across inside to bridge the gap in the doorway and keep the shape.
As the kit has various cab style etches for the modified cabs that were fitted to the class he cut out the top doorway from a spare etch with the same size doorway, soldered this to the new brass strip so that the top of the door arch was level with the top of the window arch, then filed the top all level.
He then re profiled the corners of the front and back cabsheets to meet the the cut down sides and then altered the cab roof to fit by bending in a vice.
What do you think? Have we got the effect right??
Thursday, 17 February 2011
105: The Final Steps
Construction of Barn 105 (2005 era) is now finished and it’s ready to be sent down south for the attentions of Himself and his tins of Humbrol.
The final stage was to cement the roof in place and attach footsteps to the underframe beneath the doors. I used brass wire to represent the vacuum pipe along the seaward side of the carriage, made up vacuum hoses and something to represent the electrical connections which you can see in this picture.
Unfortunately the vacuum pipe has to have a section missing to allow for the coupling shaft to swing with the bogie.
Some extra details have been added to the underframe as well. You may be able to make out the waste pipe from the toilet and also a pipe connection between the two big tanks.
All in all a pretty swift and satisfactory build.
The final stage was to cement the roof in place and attach footsteps to the underframe beneath the doors. I used brass wire to represent the vacuum pipe along the seaward side of the carriage, made up vacuum hoses and something to represent the electrical connections which you can see in this picture.
Unfortunately the vacuum pipe has to have a section missing to allow for the coupling shaft to swing with the bogie.
Some extra details have been added to the underframe as well. You may be able to make out the waste pipe from the toilet and also a pipe connection between the two big tanks.
All in all a pretty swift and satisfactory build.
Tuesday, 15 February 2011
By Popular Demand
I have added a new page to the site - an illustrated step by step guide to my technique for scratch building carriages.
This follows requests from members of the forum on Narrow Gauge Railway Modelling Online
You can find it on the page menu at the right of the screen.
The page will be added to over time. What is on the page at the moment takes you through the first stage of the process.
Please do comment and let me know if you find it useful or if there are things I could be explaining better.
This follows requests from members of the forum on Narrow Gauge Railway Modelling Online
You can find it on the page menu at the right of the screen.
The page will be added to over time. What is on the page at the moment takes you through the first stage of the process.
Please do comment and let me know if you find it useful or if there are things I could be explaining better.
K1 On Test
Our Backwoods K1 isn't just pretty lining job, it moves as well. Here's a shot of it being tested on the rolling road.
Having been lined last week the model has now been given a coat of satin varnish and you may be able to see it's not as shiny in the picture.
For the first time since the kit was put together (about 5 years ago) the two power bogies have been wired together which should improve its running. Being
0-4-0's and not having the benefit of a big lump of white metal body above them, the power units sometimes struggled over pointwork on the layouts. Now with all eight wheels picking up and feeding power to both motors there should be less need for a finger prod or a thump on the baseboard to get it moving again.
Having been lined last week the model has now been given a coat of satin varnish and you may be able to see it's not as shiny in the picture.
For the first time since the kit was put together (about 5 years ago) the two power bogies have been wired together which should improve its running. Being
0-4-0's and not having the benefit of a big lump of white metal body above them, the power units sometimes struggled over pointwork on the layouts. Now with all eight wheels picking up and feeding power to both motors there should be less need for a finger prod or a thump on the baseboard to get it moving again.
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